The kolabal, also referred to as pastak or faranji, is a centuries-old woolen garment that holds deep cultural significance for the Kurdish people, particularly the Hawrami community. Handmade and often displayed in vibrant shades of black, white, and red, this traditional attire traces its roots back thousands of years, possibly to the legend of Zuhak, a figure from ancient Kurdish mythology.
There are two primary types of kolabal, distinguished by the presence or absence of “ears” on the shoulders. In the past, these variations carried political implications. Kurds would wear kolabal without ears to signal allegiance to a just ruler. However, when they opposed an unjust leader, the people donned the version with ears as a form of silent protest.
The creation of a faranji is an intricate, time-honored process. Made primarily from the wool of six-month-old lambs, the fleece is collected in the spring, cleaned, carded, and then sent to a faranji craftsman. The wool is arranged on a frame, moistened, rolled, and pressed repeatedly to bind the fibers together. Egg yolk is added to reinforce the fabric. Once the material is ready, the artisan cuts openings for the sleeves, neck, and collar, and carefully folds the distinctive “ears.”
The faranji is not only a symbol of Kurdish identity but also a highly functional piece of clothing. It provides warmth in winter, shields against the sun in summer, and, in times of conflict, can even serve as protective armor when soaked in water. Its high shoulders are designed to help carry heavy loads, safeguarding the wearer’s back and shoulders from strain.
Although initially a Hawrami tradition, the faranji has spread to other regions of Kurdistan. It is often worn at significant cultural events and celebrations and remains a symbol of pride. During the Kurdish revolution, Peshmerga fighters famously wore the faranji as a mark of their heritage and resistance.
The garment’s origins may date as far back as the Median Empire, as suggested by historian Igor Diakonoff and ancient artifacts. Hawrami warriors and Media soldiers are believed to have worn the faranji in battle, even using its corners to carry their weapons.
Today, the number of skilled faranji makers is dwindling, but the garment remains a treasured emblem of Kurdish history and craftsmanship. Its versatility and deep cultural resonance ensure it will continue to be cherished by future generations, particularly among the Hawrami.